MAURITANIA
Capital | Nouakchott
Population | 3,129,486 (July 2009 est.)
Area | 1,030,700 sq km
Official language | Arabic
Holidays | Independence Day, November 28 (1960)
Currency | ouguiyas (MRO)
Time Zone | UTC 0
Best time to visit | December to March, when it’s cooler (but still hot)
Connecting with the Culture | Navigating the empty sea of Saharan dunes by camel. Exploring the ruins of Koumbi Saleh, legendary captial of the medieval empire of Ghana. Lingering in Chinguetti- the seventh-holiest site of Islam. Visiting Nouakchott’s wharf and fish marker, Port de Peche. Succumbing to the enchantment of the old-quarter Ouadane. Counting two million snadpipers in Parc National du Banc d’Arguin.
Read | Michael Asher’s recounting of the first west-to-east camel crossing of the Sahara in Impossible Journey: Two Against the Sahara
Listen | to the stunning combination of Arabic melodies and African percussion by Diva Dimi Mint Abba
Watch | Abderrahmane Sissako’s poignant Hermakano (Waiting for Happiness), set in Nouadhibou
Eat | at a mechui, a traditional nomad’s feast, where an entire lamb is roasted over a fire and stuffed with cooked rice (cutlery optional)
Drink | glasses of strong, sweet mint tea
In a word | Salaam aleikum (hello)
Characteristics | Endless sand; oases; desertification; birdlife; ‘controlled democratisation’
Surprises | Only in 1980, when there were an estimated 100,000 Haratin slaves in Mauritania, did the government finally declare slavery illegal, although there are regular round-ups of antislavery activists; Mauritania boasts the longest, slowest, dustiest train in the world.