DAY 230 - SARREGUEMINES (FRANCE) TO VOLKLINGEN (GERMANY): 19.8 MILES (37,600 STEPS)

9 December, 2011

19.8 miles (Total: 2260.9 miles)–37,600 (Total: 4,868,801 steps)

In his preparations for the next stage of my walk, David had found that there was an excellent train service which would get me to the Sarraguemines railway station in 15 minutes, rather than 40 minutes in the car. I was in the mood for taking advice and so set off for the station from Hotel Bruchwiese in Saarbrucken. It was a bitterly cold and wet day and the walk was to be through former heavy industrial towns inter-spaced with small mining villages – all reminiscent of my native county Durham with the weather thrown in for free. The maps David had secured picked out a good cycle route along the River Saar as far as Grosbliederstroff, from where I would skirt around the southern edge of Saarbrucken in the direction of Luxembourg.

On cold and wet days it is essential to try and find some good cafes/bars/restaurants in which to get dried off and warmed up. In Grosbliederstroff I found the wonderful Cafe Restaurant de la Paix Carepa, a family owned cafe that looked as if it had been there for 100 years. Even though I was soaking wet, I was offered a place by the radiator and I ordered two large mugs of hot chocolate. The lady who served me was distinguished looking, tall, thin and even though probably well into her seventies, with almost regal features. She spoke little English and I quickly exhausted my French, but her gestures were warm, kind and considerate. I assumed she was the owner because she displayed a quality of care and interest in patrons that comes with a sense of Calling/vocation of an owner and which, understandably, is very hard to buy-in with the offer of an hourly minimum wage.

I stayed longer than I should have and decided to get back out into the rain rather than order a third large hot chocolate. I regretted my decision as I walked a couple more hours in the driving rain and came to the small town of Spicheren. I was cold and wet and desperate for warmth and shelter and the loo! I tried all three cafes/bars and restaurants in Spicheren, but was turned away from three—one because it was full, another because I said I just wanted a coffee rather than a meal, and the third because I was bringing my own pool of water through the door with me. Of course I can understand the reticence of people to allow someone who looks and smells like a drowned rat into their fine establishment, I am sure I would be a bit sniffy too, but I could have really done with a rest from the weather, but was forced to sit in a bush shelter  for thirty minutes whilst I peeled the wet tissue paper of a napkin off my extra cheese and salami sandwich secured at breakfast.

I had hoped to make it as far as Saarlouis, but this was going to be impossible as I was shivering, hungry and cold. I marched on as far as Volklingen, which is on the main rail line, and after a very uncomfortable 20 miles that had taken 8 hours to complete. I was glad to get back to the hotel for a long hot shower, a warm room to dry my clothes in, a good meal and good company with my brother, David.