DAY 68 - ALBANIAN POLITICIANS WALK FOR TRUCE

Thursday June 29, 2011

Lac, Albania

Total: 716 miles (Total: 1,365,091 steps)

“We are here on earth to do good for others. What the others are here for, I don’t know.” W. H. Auden

We met many incredibly talented public servants and political leaders during the time we had in Albania.  By the end of the week, it seemed easier to refer to the few leaders we had not met, than the many we had. It was also clear, that in that classic political village sense, word was spreading around about the truce as a concept and as an opportunity with an upward vortex of media and political conversation and connection:

In a meeting with Madam Speaker, Jozefina Topalli, I spoke about the wisdom in the Oracle of Delphi’s observation that fighting men could not stop fighting because they were full of fear; not so much fear of looking weak to their opponents, but more looking weak and losing face to their supporters. The challenge that the Oracle posed in 776BC to King Iphitos, might be a similar challenge that the oracle might pose to the Speaker of the Parliament.  In essence, can you find some way for the combatants on either side of the current, and apparently intractable, political dispute, to resolve their differences without losing face and in a way that makes them look strong to their supporters? We agreed on the question, but were unable at that time to come up with an answer.

That evening, we were entertained to dinner by Lulzin Basha, the ultra cool, sophisticated and charming Mayor-elect of Tirana, whose result was the subject of the stand-off between the government Coalition and the Opposition. Over dinner we began discussing a way in which there may be an answer to the ‘Oracle’s’ hypothetical question. One idea that emerged out of that discussion from Anthony Cordle, was the idea of representatives from different parties undertaking a symbolic walk together. Lulzin suggested the perfect location—the Church of St Anthony of Lisbon at Lac (also known as Kisha e Shna Ndout). The church was high in the mountains above Lac, and was a site of pilgrimage for those seeking healing; could this be a pilgrimage for those wishing to see political healing too? If it were going to be possible, then we would need to secure the participation of a member of the Opposition Socialist Party.

The next day we met with Arben Malaj MP, a highly respected economics professor at Tirana University, and a former Minister of Finance. The meeting went very well and Arben agreed to join the walk early the next morning:

So early on Thursday morning, twelve of us assembled in four cars and drove towards Lac, where we were also joined by the Prefect of Lezha and the defeated mayor of Lac at the May elections—Luigi Isufi. With great foresight, Michael Green had brought out ‘Walk for Truce’ t-shirts for everyone and with much fun and banter, we all put them on—some fitting better than others and began the long steep walk to the mountain church.

The experience reminded me of the ancient Olympics, in that all those on the walk, were coming together under a common banner and trying to put aside their differences. In the ancient games, all the competitors took part not as Athenian, Spartan etc. but together, as Olympians. I mentioned this as we were about to start and the fact that this was the reason why the ancient Olympians competed naked – to divest themselves of difference and also the reason why women were not allowed to observe the games. I suggested that given most of our physiques, the women-folk would be begging for us to put more clothes on, rather than take clothes off.

After a fairly strenuous walk to the church; a pause in the church for quiet reflection and then a slow walk down to a generous breakfast, I was struck by how the simple act of taking people out of a setting of conflict and bringing them to a place which they could all approach in common, gave an opportunity for discussion and reflection that would not have been possible back in the frenzied atmosphere of Tirana. It was a courageous thing for each person represented to do. It may not change the political situation nationally, but it may just have changed a few of us internally.